The longer I live in this city, the more I realise how much of its feeling for its own history and identity is dominated by two brutal months in 1944, and the nightmares, bitterness and disappointed hopes they represent.
On the wall just outside my home in Ochota are two plaques to leaders of divisions in the Warsaw Uprising, one who fought in Wola and Śródmieście, the other who headed the Second Forgers Division. These plaques are everywhere. Between 120,000 and 200,000 civilians were killed in the 63 days of fighting. 18,000 soldiers were killed, 25,000 wounded. When I think about it, I almost feel lucky to live somewhere that has a plaque to heroes and not the slaughtered.
The longer ...
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In 1948, Wrocław’s Centennial Hall (Hala Stulecia) played host to the largest, most organised propaganda event in Poland’s history: The Recovered Territories Exhibition. An official term coined by Poland’s post-war ... -
Despite the density of visitors to Kraków since the budget airline boom, it’s still incredibly easy to derail yourself from the tourist trail. Overlooking the Wisła river from atop a ... -